Travelogue

This trip started out differently from the beginning as this time we would be traveling with another couple, one of my oldest friends and his wife. After much planning we finally met at LAX and took off. The flight seemed intensely long and we arrived in Narita around 6pm. After collecting our bags and breezing through immigration and customs we met my wife who was already there. We took the train into Tokyo and then switched trains to Kawaguchi and got my friends settled into their hotel. Then my wife and I went to her folk’s place where we would stay for the next 3 nights.

Tokyo - My friend wanted to see the fish market in Tsukiji so I got up at 4:50am, woke up my wife and walked to their hotel. We checked them out and headed into Tokyo before rush hour. We took a taxi from Shinbashi station to Tsukiji and it was already a mad house. Outside the market which is known as the “outside market” was crowded and bustling with activity. We made our way to the “inside market” and we felt like our lives were in danger. There were so many people and carts moving around, that it was difficult to safely walk around. The energy was intense to say the least. I had been here before but not this early and had never seen it like this. We finally made our way out of the inside market and walked around the outside market where my friend and I had a wonderful sushi breakfast at one of the many tiny bars just outside. The wives didn’t want to eat sushi this early (it was now about 9:00am) so they went to a small coffee shop. We continued walking around the outside market for a while which was a lot of fun.

We left this area on foot and walked to Ginza. There we checked my friends into their hotel where they would spend the next 2 nights. We walked around the Ginza a little and had lunch. We then took a train to the Tokyo Edo Museum, which I have been to before but is still interesting. Right next door to it is the Sumo arena. We had purchased tickets before we got to Japan. The Sumo tournament was in its next to last day so the arena was packed and it was very exciting. We took the train back to Ginza and left our friends at their hotel and my wife and I went back to Kawaguchi. What a day!

The next day we took it a little easier. We met our friends near their hotel and took a train to Ueno and walked around Ameyoko. After the war, this area was the black market. Now it is a bustling pedestrian market. We then took a train to a fabulous garden called Koishikawa Korokuen. It is right next door the Tokyo Dome. It is large lush garden that was very pleasant to stroll around. We headed back to Ginza where we had plans to have a Kaiseki dinner with my wife’s family and relatives. The restaurant was very lovely, though it was not a traditional Kaiseki dinner it was still an interesting experience and we had a great time trying to communicate with our Japanese hosts.

Kyoto - The next morning, we gathered up our bags and got everyone to Tokyo station where we cashed in our Rail passes so we could board the Shinkansen (bullet train). They have been reducing the number trains that accept Rail Passes so we had to wait an hour for the next train. We made the 3 hour trip to Kyoto and then took the subway and walked just a couple of blocks to our hotel. We checked in and walked a few blocks to Nijo-jo (Nijo Castle). It is a beautiful place with large meeting rooms, protective walls and extensive gardens. As we strolled around, there were hundreds of school children that were eager to talk to foreigners and some of them even interviewed my friend. We left the castle and walked a few blocks to Nijojinja, which is an inn for samurai. It is basically a large 4 hundred year old house that has some strange devices for defense and the protection for and from guests. It was a little cheesy and I wouldn’t recommend it. We grabbed a taxi and took it to Gion (Geisha district) to get dinner. We walked around the streets a little which is very interesting before settling into a yakitori bar.

The next day we took a subway and a bus to Ginkakuji. The approach to the temple is lined with many tourist shops. I bought a delicious cracker from one of the vendors. At the temple we were again greeted by hundreds of uniformed school children. This time one of them interviewed me. Even though it was crowded it was beautiful to stroll around the garden paths which wind their way up down the hillside. We exited the temple and headed back down the road with its many shops. Kyoto has an extraordinary little sweet that is made of mochi folded around a filling of either red bean, chocolate or other such things. My wife was enquiring about some to one of the vendors and told her she had already placed her order. The vendor was very rude and pushy so we just walked away.

We continued our journey down the Path of Philosophy. It’s an old stone path that follows a pretty little canal. Along the way there are temples, residential houses, restaurants, various shops and a good number of tea and sweet shops. It is a very beautiful stroll. From Ginkakuji we followed the path to Honen-in, a small quiet temple. We continued down the path until it ends at Eikando, a large temple that boasts the only known statue of Buddha looking over his shoulder. It is also noted for having a special kind of pine tree that has needles that grow in groups of three rather than the usual two. We strolled around the grounds leisurely before continuing down the street to Nanzen-ji. Nanzen-ji is a sprawling complex of temples spread out over a large area. We visited several of them and each one had its own unique garden. We also climbed up into the huge gate that commands a fantastic view of the area. Unfortunately you have to pay individually to get into each place including the gate. It feels ridiculous to keep paying at each one but they are all operated by different sects. Also on these grounds is the old aqueduct. It was built in the 1800s in the style of the ancient Roman aqueduct. It still carries water but is no longer used as drinking water supply. It was closing time for the temples so we took a cab back across the river to Pontocho-dori. This is a small alley no more than 9 feet wide that goes on for several blocks. On both sides are restaurants and bars of all types. The ones on the East side of the alley have patios that overlook the Kamo River with Gion on the other side. We picked one and had dinner on the patio. While we were there we could here Japanese drummers playing on a rooftop across the river. After dinner we continued walking around Pontocho and adjacent streets. This is a lively downtown area but is still very pretty. We ducked into a tiny British style bar for drinks. After leaving it we found a massage parlor that was open late. We checked it out and it was a very nice place with young masseurs that were probably students. My wife and I got a semi full body rub, while our friends got foot massages.

Hiroshima - The next day we got ourselves back to Kyoto station and using our handy Rail Passes, boarded the shinkansen and headed to Hiroshima. It was only about an hour and a half ride. We took a taxi to our hotel which was right in the center of town and just a few blocks away from Peace Park. We went directly to A-bomb Museum. Again, at the museum, there were thousands of school kids lining up to enter. Fortunately for us, they use a separate entry and we could just walk right up and purchase our tickets which were only ¥50 (about $.50) ea. The museum opens to large room that details the history of the city leading up to and into WWII. In this hall there are 2 large scale models of the entire city before and after the explosion. Above the room there is a large scale model of the dome portion of the A-bomb Dome. This room also contained the famous watch that stopped at 8:15. Continuing upstairs, there are a number of displays of the history of nuclear weaponry through modern times. Past this there are a number of artifacts like melted glass and small items that have melted and fused together. Then after walking down a long hallway connecting the buildings there are a number of displays like clothing from school children that are shredded and burned, a diorama depicting a few people walking through the burning city with their skin melting off their bodies. The stone steps of a bank with a “shadow” of a woman that was sitting there waiting for the bank to open. A white concrete wall with stripes from the “black rain” that occurred shortly after the explosion, a full size model of the bomb and another scale model depicting the city with the fireball above it 1 second after detonation. The list goes on with all kinds of personal items, photos of people with horrible radiation burns and even actual deformed body parts. The museum really tugs at your heart strings by naming the actual people that wore the uniforms or owned the items on display.

We left the museum and walked along the scenic path of the park to the A-bomb Dome. Along the way we stopped at a few memorials which are everywhere throughout the park. The Dome itself is very imposing and for me it was like dream to be in its presence after seeing so many pictures of it. We walked back through the park and visited other memorials including the Cenotaph Memorial to all the victims, and the Flame of Peace. We walked back to our hotel and rested a little before heading out for dinner. We walked to a well known building called Okonomi Mura, which on the 2^nd, 3^rd and 4^th floors has nothing but a bunch of little stalls that all make okonomiyaki. It was impossible to tell one from another so we just sat down at one and had some. Hiroshima is famous for this dish which is a crepe piled high with cabbage, pork, egg, special sauce and other ingredients. It is grilled right in front of you and served on the flat griddle that you’re sitting at. After dinner we walked around the nearby “entertainment” district. This is basically a colorful red-light district that stretches around a good number of city blocks. It is a lively area, but there is nothing of interest there unless you’re looking for some kind of “adult” entertainment.

Hiroshima gave all of us a very strange feeling. On one hand you are walking around enjoying a beautiful modern city with very friendly people and on the other you can’t escape the reality of what happened there. It is impossible to imagine the horror of such an event, yet the people there seem to be at peace with it and you feel glad, sad and guilty of feeling either at any particular time.

Miyajima - The next morning, we took the street trolley to Hiroshima station to board a local train to Miyajima-guchi where we then took a ferry to the small island of Miyajima. On the ferry you get a fine view of the famous “floating” Torii gate. The ferry docks at the edge of a very picturesque little town with tame deer everywhere. We walked down the main street along the waters edge for about 5 minutes to the famous Itskushima Shrine, which sits over the water at high tide and offers beautiful views of the floating Torii. Around the shrine are a few other small shrines and interesting shops. We went uphill on a small street to Daishoin temple. This is rather flashy temple that has everything, beautiful gardens, koi ponds, waterfalls, statues of all kinds, prayer halls of differing kinds and best of all, there are no restrictions on access or of photography (many temples do not allow photography inside the buildings). Just outside one of the halls there was a staircase leading down below the building. We went down and there is a curtain, upon entering, you were in complete pitch black darkness in a tight hallway only about 3 feet wide. You had to use your hands to guide you along the wall which took a sharp turn where there were a number of illuminated pictures of Buddha along the wall. Continuing along the passage it took another sharp turn and again you’re in the dark until exiting the other side. We spent at least several hours there. We left the temple and walked along a wide nature trail through the forest until we got to the ropeway. The ropeway normally takes you to the top Mt. Misen, however it has broken down several times recently so it is closed until they can fully repair it. We already knew this before getting to the island so we did not plan on using it. We were happy strolling through the forest and its magnificent scenery. We took a trail back towards town that led us through some very lush creek-side scenery and down another touristy street with all kinds of trinkets and some very delicious sweets. After dark, the floating Torii is lit up to a very dramatic effect. The tide was out so it was possible to walk up to the Torii. It is only up close that you can get a real feel for its size. The next morning before leaving Hiroshima, My friend and I went to search for a small plaque that marks Ground Zero also known as the Hypocenter. We found it on a small side street a few blocks from the A-bomb Dome.

Osaka - We took the shinkansen to Osaka, which is only about an hour and a half away. From Shin-Osaka station we took the subway which let us off several blocks from our hotel. Osaka is very industrial with small streets that are very busy. Our hotel was very close to Dotombori. Dotombori runs alongside the canal that gives it its name. It is a pedestrian entertainment area full of shops and hundreds of restaurants and bars. We walked through Dotombori looking for a small side street that turned out to be a covered arcade full of more shops. Then turning down a tight alley and walking about 50 yards there is a well known shrine called Hozen-ji. This place is famous for the moss covered Buddha statue. For some reason when people come here to pray they splash water all over the main statue and a couple of smaller statues. This done so often and for so long, that they are completely covered with a thick layer of moss. I was there for about a half hour taking photos of it and no less then 20 people came by to pray and splash water. We then took the subway to Osaka aquarium. This was the best aquarium I have ever seen. It starts off with a water tunnel that many aquariums are now doing that makes you feel like you are under water. Then escalators take you to the upper floors and you wind your way down and around a number of different tanks. You get to see the same tanks (as well as others) from different depths and angles exposing you to different creatures. The aquarium has a quite a few creatures that I have never seen before including a Whale Shark, a Sun Fish (the strangest fish I have seen), huge Spider Crabs and 2-toed sloth. Outside the aquarium, there is what claims to be the world’s largest Ferris wheel. We bought a package ticket that discounts the aquarium and the wheel. The wheel itself does not stop turning and you jump on and it takes 15 minutes to make 1 revolution giving us a beautiful view of Osaka at night. Walking back to Dotombori the place exploded with neon lighting and young people crowding the streets and bridges leaving lots of trash everywhere. The lights are beautiful to behold but it is dirtier and smellier here than any where else I have been to in Japan.

Tokyo - We gathered up our stuff and took our last shinkansen ride back to Tokyo. This time we would be staying in Shinjuku. Shinjuku station is the busiest in the world with over 1,000,000 going through it everyday. We had to jostle our way through the crowd with all of our luggage and walk a few blocks to our hotel. We had less than an hour to clean ourselves up as we were meeting friends for a big karaoke party. Everyone was on time and we stepped out of our hotel, walked across the street and immediately found a “karaoke box” to suit our needs. These are private rooms that have all the necessary equipment. You order drinks and food while you pick whatever songs you want from books that contain thousands of choices. It was all much more fun than I ever thought it would be. After words, one of our guests from the party took us to nearby Harajuku and we went to a small cozy bar for more expensive drinks. The next morning we took the train back to Harajuku. After leaving the station we walked down trendy Takeshita-dori, which is where all the trendy young people buy crazy clothes. After walking around the block, we went toward the Meiji Shrine entrance. Near the entrance hundreds of young girls hang out and wear wild costumes of all kinds reveling in the attention from tourists and photographers. We entered the shrine which is an enormous park, heavily forested with nice gardens. The shrine itself is beautiful and is the scene of many traditional weddings. While we were there, there was a wedding in progress and the wedding party simply marches right through the tourists while everyone snaps photos of them. Later that evening, we had another family dinner at the New York Grill on the 52^nd floor of the Park Hyatt Hotel. This is where the bar is in the movie Lost in Translation and it has unparalleled views of Tokyo.